As a self-proclaimed professional bar-hopper, I am always looking out for the hottest new openings, most killer concepts and most badass bartenders. I’m so obsessed I literally plan holidays around ticking off places on the World’s 50 Bars list. Seriously. As a Black woman living in London, however, it’s embarrassing how few of those have been Black-owned bars. It’s not been deliberate, but if 2020 has taught me anything, rectifying it should be.
So, new challenge: if I’m on the hunt for world-class bars, I’m going to make the effort to shine a light on those that are Black-owned and/or operated. I’m making a list and I’m checking it twice. My criteria:
- POC in a decision-making capacity (owner/manager/investor/ head bartender etc.). Was sad to kick a couple of bars of the list for failing this criteria. PSA: ‘Black Culture’ is not a theme. Do better.
- It’s all about the drinks, baby. Bar, pub, club or restaurant with a strong drinks list. You may have the best Jerk or Jollof in town, but if your cocktail game is weak, I’m not interested. There are other lists for you.
- I’d drink there. Slick, sexy, a little bit cool. High-end? Not necessarily…but it doesn’t hurt. This list is totally subjective, I like what I like. Don’t @me.
2020 being the dumpster fire that it is, a few of the Black-owned bars I wanted to lead with (like Chef Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster with a drinks list in collab with sustainable cocktail gurus Trash Tiki, Idris Elba’s Parrot at The Waldorf Hilton, the London outpost of Nas’ party spot Sweet Chick) are temporary victims of the Covid hospitality apocalypse. Fingers crossed they’ll be open again soon.
I hope to keep this list of Black-owned bars updated, so keep checking back…
Trailer Happiness
The OG since 2003, Trailer Happiness is an award winning Black-owned bar on Portobello Road. Believe the t-shirts: they ‘rum tings’, they ‘rum this city’ and have over 200 varieties in-house to prove it. They serve classic and original cocktails with a Tiki twist – including the strongest Hurricanes outside the North Atlantic – in a basement bar with the kitschiest decor (though my parents did have half the pics in this place when I was growing up…).
Local West London boy Sly Augustin, owner since 2012, is one of London’s leading rum aficionados. His parents are from St Lucia and Jamaica, so he grew up immersed in rum culture. And. He. Knows. His. S***. You’ll see him popping up in the press and at trade events talking rum history (in all its filthy glory) and sharing his passion for making the spirit accessible to all.
No wonder the cocktail list is so damn good.
Trailer Happiness, 177 Portobello Rd, London, W11 2DY
Hacha
From rum to tequila (and mezcal), from West to East, to Hacha, a Black-owned bar in Dalston. London’s only Agaveria and home of the Mirror Margarita – voted Time Out‘s 7th Best Cocktail in the World and Cocktail of the Year 2020 at the CLASS Bar Awards. Made with Don Julio Blanco tequila, Hacha sour, cane syrup and grapefruit zest, it’s fresh, delicious and as crystal clear as a looking glass. Which could get messy, ‘cause it looks exactly like a glass of water and it’s just as easy to drink. I could make at least 3 or 4 of them disappear – no problem.
As well as the Mirror Margarita, the teeny-tiny bar boasts a truly innovative agave-based cocktail menu that showcases 25 different rare and fine mezcals and tequilas. In individually numbered bottles, they are rotated on a regular basis. Also regularly rotated: the guests in kitchen, with different residents serving up delicious Mexican munchies to soak up all those margs.
The glassy Mirror Margarita is the brainchild of Hacha owner Deano Moncrieffe who, not only is a former brand ambassador for luxury tequila and mezcal brands, but is the driving force behind Equal Measures. Equal Measures is an independent platform, dedicated to educate hospitality industry on the importance of diversity and inclusivity, to increase representation and to work together to eradicate racism.
What is it about passionate people running great bars? Deano, love your Mirror Margaritas, I stand up and salute your activism. Legend.
Hacha, 378 Kingsland Road, London E8 4AA.
2024 update: Deano and team opened their Brixton location in August 2021 and. Also, their multi award-winning Mirror Margaritas are available for home delivery not only from their bars, but now from Amazon and selected Sainsbury’s stores too.
Saint Aymes
The most instagrammable spot in London. Seriously. Saint Aymes is a whimsical pink unicorn fantasy land, strewn with roses and serving up cupcakes, candy floss and champagne. AND I AM HERE FOR IT.
Dreamed up by sisters Lois and Michela Aymes-Wilson, it’s not just a Black-owned bar (or café, whatever), it’s a lifestyle sprinkled with heaps of Black Girl Magic. Having graduated from LCF, both sisters are heavily influenced by fashion and design, leaning into that to create an immersive experience featuring luxurious interiors, gold finishings and a unique and wonderful edible art menu. Hell, even U.K. Vogue editor Edward Enniful has stopped by…
Not classic mixology, but who can resist a Pink Unicorn (raspberry gin and tonic poured on a cotton candy cloud topped with 24k gold)? And they have a daily happy hour. What’s not to love?
Worth battling legions of influencers to snag a table. Dress up, bring sharp elbows and enjoy.
Saint Aymes, 59 Connaught Street, London, W2 2BB
2024 update: after five successful years, the Aymes sisters closed the café at the end of 2023 . They are working on new and exciting projects, so don’t expect them to be gone for too long…
Ikoyi
One Michelin-starred restaurant Ikoyi was founded by childhood friends Iré Hassan-Odukale and Jeremy Chan with the idea of bringing a slice of Lagos, Nigeria to Central London.
The slick, airy space in St James’ serves up refined versions of Nigerian (and Ghanaian, and Senegalese, and Sierra Leonean…) classics using seasonal British ingredients and a foundation of sub-Saharan West African spicing. As tasty as plantain caramelised in ginger and kombu or 60-day dry aged Shorthorn Beef Rib Suya sound – I’m not here for the food.
That’s because Ikoyi has worked closely with Max and Noel Venning of Three Sheets (#16 Worlds 50 Best Bars 2019) to create a drinks menu with the same influences – a Martini with okra vermouth, a Collins with Gola pepper – designed to be paired with the food. Add in Nigerian beer, Cameroonian coffee…and old world wines – there’s lots to be getting on with.
Innovative and elegant. Iko-yes.
Ikoyi, 1 St. James’s Market, London, SW1Y 4AH
2024 update: Ikoyi moved from St James’s to their new 180 Strand location at the end of 2022. The restaurant menu has evolved to more of a high-end tasting concept. Still looks fabulous, has two Michelin stars, and, if I can ever afford a reservation, I’ll let you know how the cocktails are!
Buster Mantis
Heading South of the river, Buster Mantis is a little bit of industrial Scandi cool. In Deptford. Named for Jamaica’s first Prime Minister, Alexander Bustamante, it is not immediately the look you’d expect from a Black-owned bar in South East London slinging stewed chicken and Red Stripe. Spread over two railway arches underneath the overground, one arch is a bar/restaurant, the other a gallery and creative space, hosting regular events, art exhibitions and screenings. This is not your granny’s Deptford.
Bar owner Gordon McGowan was born in South East London. He moved to Mandeville in rural Jamaica when he was two, moving back to London as a teen. The Jamaican influences are clear from the food menu (courtesy of his mum) and the cocktail list – they have a killer Punch (heavy on the Wray & Nephew) as well Mango Scotch Bonnet Martinis. Pow! Oh yeah, and Red Stripe.
A one-man empire, McGowan also owns both Stockton and The Watergate just down the road. Head South and make it a mini-crawl.
Buster Mantis, 3-4 Resolution Way, Deptford, London SE8 4NT.
Best Black-owned bars in London: the breakdown
What are your favourite Black-owned bars in London? What should I add? Keep an eye out for updates and, while you’re waiting, check out my board on Pinterest for more ideas.
Header image: photo by Sherard Campbell on Unsplash Casamigos
